Melnik & Rozhen Monastery
Melnik is the smallest and one of the most fascinating towns-museums, situated in Southwestern Bulgaria. Nestled amongst the lowest southwestern fold of Pirin. The town is situated at the distance of 24 km from the town of Sandanski and is linked through an asphalt road (12km) to the international road Sofia-Athens.
Melnik is a blend of unique nature - the cliffs clustered around the houses on the hills, history, culture and wine. The silent white houses, one upon the other, with beautiful bay-windows and silent yards, buried in greenery and tranquility of an aged glory and prosperity arise nothing but admiration. The climate of Melnik is favorable for medical treatment of chronic pulmonary, kidney and rheumatic disorders.
Melnik is not only history and architecture – it is wine too. Original cellars are excavated in the sand pyramids, which surround the town on all sides, and there the famous Melnik wine ripens, matures and is preserved. Nowhere else can one find this technology. Neighboring Turkey like far away France and Spain chose the taste of this delicious, dark-red, matured wine.
HISTORY
Very few people know that the picturesque town,replica watches snuggled between the hills today, was an important economic center once, with more than 25 000 inhabitants, about 1300 houses and more than 70 churches. Perhaps, it was the ancient Thracians that laid the foundations of the city. The cobbled streets have witnessed in a row the feet of Slavs, Bulgarians, Greeks, Romans, Turks…
SIGHTSEEING
The old Melnik houses are impressive with their architecture in conformity with the laws of nature, with their wealth, with their Kordopoulov's House - the biggest residential building on the Balkan Peninsula from the Revival Period, in possession of extraordinary mural paintings and an enormous wine-cellar, the Bolyar House - the oldest preserved residential building in our country, Pashov house - turned nowadays into a town museum of history.wine cellars, with the Bulgarian sense of practicality and beauty. The more popular of them are: The ruins of St.Nikola Monastery of the 12 th century, the Slav Fortress of the 13 th – 14 th centuries, the Roman Bridge, the ancient Turkish bath are of interest, too as well as the ruins of several churches, which in the old times added to 75 in number.
NATURE
Melnik is situated among the whimsical sand pyramids – some of the most fascinating natural phenomena on the Balkans. On the area of 17 sq. km millennia-long erosion has chiseled this unusual world. Depending on the strength of your imagination, you could see in them obelisks, ancient towers, giant mushrooms... etc.
TRANSPORT
There are regular bus connection with Petrich, Blagoevgrad and Sofia. The nearest railway station, Damyanitsa, on the Sofia-Koulata railway line is at the distance of 12km.
SURROUNDING AREAS
The Rojen Monastery is not far from the town (6 km), it was a center of Christian faith and arts. 20 km northeast one can find Rupite.
FASCINATING ROZHEN AND ITS ICONS
If you walk along the uneven bed of the rivulet which often dries up for months, you will come to Karlanovo. It is flanked on both sides by steep rock. Thousands of years of erosion have shaped these obelisks of old Quaternary deposits, pressing down the grayish-white Pliocene sands.Strings of tobacco leaves are drying on the walls of the Karlanovo houses, and the woodwork of windows, doors and shady porches has grown dark from long exposure to the sun.Sharp conical rocks and deep ravines interspersed with giant petrified mushrooms spring into view. The road goes over a ridge somewhat abruptly to descend towards Rozhen, a tiny village nestling in a mountain fold. Its many bends down the hillside reveal the same panorama on the other side too.A bright little church stands in a fragrant mountain meadow. It was built by 'citizen Yane Sandanski' who said that 'all nations are brothers and should live as such.'
A hundred paces more and you come to the famous Rozhen Monastery. It
stood alone in the past surrounded by tall forests, but now gleams white from a distance with its high pentagonal walls, its well protected windows, its quaint rooftops and graceful belfry.A cobblestone path overgrown with moss leads to the spacious verandahs of the monks' cells which enclose the courtyard. In the middle of the courtyard rises the monastery Church of the Nativity of the Virgin, with frescoed walls both inside and out.The monastery was built in 1217 with donations from the population of the Bulgarian villages of Karlanovo, Rozhen, and Lyubovishte. Man has created here an architectural masterpiece of the middle Ages and an invaluable historical monument.An old fresco above the main door of the church bears the date 1597.A stained glass window of extraordinary beauty is from 1715. The icons date back to 1611, 1715, 1732. To the left of the entrance is a small chapel, known for its remarkable icon of the Virgin Mary.
In the narthex one can see the portrait of the donor Doiko Hadji, which has come to light after the plaster, was removed. He is depicted in a costume worn by rich Bulgarians in the past. The face of the donor Anastassi has been uncovered too. The nun Melania, another donor, was painted in a rather secular style and has typically Bulgarian features.It was the Greek clergy who had a dominant position in the ecclesiastical life of the Bulgarians under Ottoman rule.Bulgarian names are inscribed under many icons in Greek. One may read the names of the Bulgarians Priest Kosta, Banko Chorbadji and others in the list of donors of the Melnik diocese in 1802 which was written in Greek. Many eighteenth century Greek inscriptions on graves in Melnik bear the names of Grecized Bulgarians whose fathers' names were Stoyan, Zlatyu or the like.Bulgarian icon-painters held it as their sacred duty to keep to the prototypes of Byzantine iconography, since Bulgaria had adopted Christianity from Byzantium. This was observed both in Melnik and other Bulgarian' settlements. All the more so because Bulgaria ceased to have a patriarchy of its own after it fell under Ottoman domination at the close of the fourteenth century. It was only in the nineteenth century that Greek inscriptions began to be replaced by Bulgarian as a manifestation of the intensifying struggle for national liberation and religious independence.
Most of the icons in the Rozhen monastery, in the still extant Melnik churches and in the town's rich collection of icons, have features which are characteristic of church painting of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, but their inscriptions show that they were painted later, in the eighteenth or even the nineteenth century.
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